Grasmere is the last village before the main ‘A’ road heads north to Keswick and the Northern lakes. Built on the old pack horse route to Whitehaven the village is dominated by high craggy fells and sits by it’s own small lake. The name is thought to come from the Norse Grisemere (Lake of The Swine) as the surrounding forest was used to herd pigs. As these forests were hewn down, probably for charcoal, sheep were introduced as a main source of economy, and it is these woolly lads that give the fells that carefully manicured appearance. To many Grasmere is one of Cumbria's prettiest villages, to others it is a place of pilgrimage to that ‘Hallowed Spot’, the grave of William Wordsworth. Arriving by the likes of turbo charged Mercedes tour buses, complete with in-flight stewardess, minibar and loo, the faithful come by the thousands to pay homage at the grave, a simple stone in the grounds of St Oswald's Church. Wordsworth came to Grasmere in 1799 and took residence at Town End, renamed it Dove Cottage and stayed for eight years before moving to Rydal Mount, passing away in 1850. Alongside his grave are those of his sister Dorothy, his daughter Dora and other members of his family. During his later life he fought hard, and won, a battle to stop the railway driving its way from Windermere to Grasmere. He strongly opposed the possibility of floods of tourists visiting such a beautiful area, one of which only he and his group of fellow artists and writers could fully appreciate. Ironic that this rather pompous stance should, by his own fame, produce the reverse effect, drawing hoards not only to his beloved lakes but to tramp around his modest grave. The buildings of Grasmere are mostly 19th or early 20th century but blend well with older structures. The Church, dating from the 13th century, is a good solid building with thick stone walls and sits by the river. Each year the now rare festival of rush bearing takes place, an event held in only a few other northern towns. The event is held on the nearest Saturday to the 5th August. Another popular event is the Grasmere Sports. These include the Guides Race where agile men run up impossible fells, hound trailing and, most popular, Cumberland & Westmoreland wrestling. Attired in the traditional dress of long johns and velvet pants, large men do battle. Various intricate moves are made such as hypes and cross buttocks in order to throw your man to the floor. Dove Cottage lies on the edge of the village and is open to the public where in winter, with the fire lit, lighting down low, you get a real sense of what it must have been like in Wordsworth’s time. Next door is a museum dedicated to both Wordsworth and life in Grasmere and a nice tea room selling books and gifts. Most of the shops are given over to souvenirs, jumpers and outdoor clothing, with a chemist, a newsagent and a perfumery. At the entrance to St Oswald's is the tiny Gingerbread Shop. Once the village school, it was taken over in the mid 19th century by Sarah Nelson, famed for her spicy confection where to this day the recipe remains a closely guarded secret. The Heaton Cooper Gallery is well worth a visit, if only to look rather than buy the works of this noted water colour artist. The Garden centre has both a good collection of plants and a huge gift shop well worth rummaging around. Attached is a decent cafe, run by the same folk that own the the Queen’s Head at Troutbeck which serves the best pub food in the south. A short walk from the village centre brings you down to the lake. Here you can hire rowing boats and in the foot steps, or more correctly, the wake of Wordsworth, skull out to the island for a picnic. From the village you will find easy access to some fine walks. From the Easedale Road a track takes you up to Easedale Tarn, a good low level walk. Another goes to Helm Crag, known locally as the Lion and the Lamb, a steep climb but with rewarding views. South of the village, along Red Bank, brings you onto Loughrigg Terrace, where you can continue with a walk around Rydal Water. After all this walking you will probably welcome a drink, The pubs, inns and hotels tend to get very crowded, so if you like a quiet pint then slip into the cocktail bar of the Red Lion. Dining has become a much more interesting proposition with the arrival of the wonderful Jumble Room. Hosted by Andy and Chrissy Hill the atmosphere, cuisine and their great personalities have taken food buffs by storm. The cafe is an eclectic mix of tables, chairs and settles strewn with cushions. The food is excellent, mixing good English with French and Italian, washed down with fine wines or local bottled beer. Rave reviews, backed up by an AA Rosette mean you are wise to book in advance.