Leaving Windermere you run straight into Bowness. The town lies on the east shore of Lake Windermere, its main street climbing away from the bay up a steep hill. The settlement dates back to the 11th century when the vikings first set up shop. For centuries it remained little more than a few cottages and fishermens' huts. Then came the 19th century and the steam railway. Up went the guest houses and the shops, in moved the wealthy industrialists building palatial homes and with some, notably a Mr Schneider, a private pier and steam yacht, The Esperance, which in turn connected him to his own private railway. The rest, as they, say is history and progress.The Esperance still survives, an elegent craft owned by the Windermere Steam Boat Museum. Today most of the action takes place down the bottom end with shops, pubs and restaurants and the steamer terminus. Here you can board one of the Steamers from old Mr Schneider’s pier, and cruise up and down the lake, calling at Ambleside in the north or Lakeside down at the southern tip. The church of St Martins is a handsome building and marks the area of the old part of Bowness. A pleasing maze of little lanes in which you will find a few cafes, the post office, grand hotels and the oldest pub, The Hole Int’ Wall. The name comes from the days when ale was passed through a hole to an adjoining blacksmith. For those who wish to take to the water under their own steam you can hire row boats or little electric powerboats. Along the bay is the Marina with lots of boaty shops for cleats, rollocks, diving and water-sking gear, also a few bars and cafes overlooking the water. As well as water activities there are a number of good attractions. The Windermere Steamboat Museum lies on the Rayrigg Road. Here you get a wonderful insight into a more genteel age of boating and can book a trip on one of their fine restored steamboats. The Old Laundry is both a theatre and host to an exhibition dedicated to the characters of Beatrix Potter and is a great favourite with children. At the top end of the town is the Royalty Cinema. South, on the Newby Bridge Road, is the newly restored Blackwell Arts & Crafts House. This perfect example of the Arts & Crafts movement also houses a fine gallery of modern art. Entrance is by paid admission but is well worth the small fee. There are lots of shops, grocers, chemists and bakers and in the Arcade, just off Ash Street, is an interesting chocolate shop. Like most Lakeland towns there is a selection of outdoor clothing shops. Stuart's, at the top end, has been there forever and is stuffed full of kit, often at less than the going price in Ambleside. Mountain Trading have a good selection of cimbing, walking and beach wear and for a splash of fash’ there is Morse Point at the very bottom of the town, serving up Hugo Boss and the like. ‘Lakeland’ is a local outlet specialising in leather clothes for men and women. For dining out the fayre is varied from pizza to Chinese. A nice cafe is The Two Egg Cups in Ash Street, serving good coffee. The Old Laundry also has a very good cafe with nice filling crostini, good coffee and teas. The Stores Park Hotel lies just south of the town and has an excellent reputation for fine cusine, set in a grand lakeside buiding. But for me the best restaurant is the Porthole Eating House, hosted by the lovely Gianni Berton and his wife Judy, ably assisted by head man Stephan and the rest of the crew. The atmosphere is happy, the food excellent and you can turn up in jeans or a ball gown and feel just right.