Geographically the most central town of the Southern Lakes, the centre of Ambleside lies one mile north from the head of lake Windermere in the Rothay valley. The setting is rather good, with high fell rising up above the grey stone buildings, a decent river, Stock Ghyll, with it’s impressive 70ft waterfall, and lots of alleyways and twisty lanes to explore. Situated at the crossing of many old pack horse routes the town has a long history. The Romans, on their way to Ravenglass in AD 79, paused and built Galava fort at Waterhead. Not much remains, but you can still see the basic outline and more is being discovered over time, some I gather in the walls of more modern buildings. The most famous building is the Bridge House. A small, two storey, two room stone edifice, built over the river and probably the most photographed building in the lakes. Legend has it that is was built to avoid taxes, but was in fact an apple store belonging to Ambleside Hall. Over the years it has been a cobblers shop, a bijou des res for hubby, wife and six children and today is a National Trust information centre and film star. The oldest part of the town dates from the 15th century and lies on the Kirkstone side of the river. This was once the centre for a thriving corn and bobbin mill industry, and a restored waterwheel can been seen just above the bridge, opposite Bridge House. Finally on history, there is the Armitt Library, a remarkable collection of books and articles on the local topography, with letters and papers, sketches and drawings penned by eminent residents, the likes of Wordsworth, Harriet Martineau, Collingwood, Ruskin and Miss Potter. As well as exploring the lanes, there are some pleasant walks. Stockghyll Lane brings you to the waterfall. Up Skelghyll Lane, a track takes you to Jenkin Cragg for some magnificent views of the mountains and lake. A mile south is Waterhead, the northern terminus for the Windermere steamers, where you can take a tour of the lake or hire a row boat or little electric powerboat. A steepish climb up Nook End lane, past Nook End farm opens to a track that takes in High and Low Sweden Bridges and on up to Rydal Fell and Fairfield for some serious high fell walking. Today Ambleside is a popular town as a base for exploring the National Park, though this does mean it tends to get crowded during the high season. There are lots of good little food shops, but the main commerce seems to be in outdoor clothing, mountain gear and boots. The oldest supplier is the Climbers Shop on Compston Road, right in the town centre. Here you will get pro advice and pro equipment. There is a YHA store, Rock & Run for rock rats, Stewart Cunningham, the alternative to the Mountain Shop and the vast cave of Gaynor Sports. For the fashion walker try Rohan designer anoracks. These are only a few and new ones seem to pop up each season. There are two good bookshop for both the latest John Grisham and a host of the best guides and maps on the lakes. Cycles can be hired from Bike Treks and also at Easyriders who have the new Yamaha elecric assisted bikes, great fun. For Deli’ delights and groceries go to Lucy’s in Church Street. By the Bridge House is Adrian Sankey Glass Makers, an open workshop where you can see glass makers working away at their furnaces.The products range from wine glasses to perfume bottles and huge bowls of differing style and lighting. Next to the workshop is an excellent award winning restaurant for both lunch and dinner. South of the town centre on the A591 is Hayes Garden World. Haled as one of the finest garden centres, its Crystal Palace like stucture and grounds offer one of the largest collections of plants in the North. For entertainment there is Zeffirelli’s cinema with its own classy pizzeria. Dining out is varied, with a mixture of fast food and proper restaurants including Italian, Indian, Chinese and Thai. Try Shelia’s Cottage down The Slack, Lucy’s On A Plate in Church Street and Lucy’s new venture, ‘Lucy 4’ Wine Bar & Bistro on St Mary’s Lane and finally The Glass House Cafe & Restaurant on Rydal Road. For coffee there is the ever popular Apple Pie Eating House & Bakery on Rydal Road and for the big fry up Stock Ghyll Snacks & Grills. Finally the pubs. Lots to choose from but most get busy with visitors. If you are looking for a venue with lake views and good local ale try the Wateredge just outside of the main town, which also serves tasty, freshly cooked and well prepared lunch and dinner.